After years of serving near Union Square, the once-popular Le Colonial has shut its doors for good.
The restaurant, which opened in 1998, served its last meal on September 1.
While it paid homage to Vietnam during the French colonial era of the 1920s, it faced significant backlash for its depiction of Vietnamese culture.
Accusations of Cultural Insensitivity
Le Colonial’s theme, while meant to reflect a particular historical period, was criticized for being out of touch.
Some felt the decor played on cultural stereotypes, with decorations from various Southeast Asian countries, which many found problematic.
These concerns led to accusations that the restaurant glorified colonialism, culminating in a harsh review from San Francisco Chronicle’s critic, Soleil Ho, in 2019.
In the review, Ho described the restaurant’s atmosphere as having “a sticky film of racism” and criticized both the food and the cultural representation.
The review marked a turning point, bringing negative attention to Le Colonial that it struggled to overcome.
Leadership Change in 2021
In an attempt to address its image, Geoffrey Deetz and his wife Quynh Nhu took over the restaurant in 2021.
As executive chef and general manager, Deetz aimed to rehabilitate Le Colonial’s reputation.
However, Deetz acknowledged that their efforts came too late.
“We were basically canceled in the local media,” Deetz reflected, citing the 2019 review and the challenges of the COVID-19 pandemic.
The couple was determined to create a space where Vietnamese culture was genuinely honored, but the restaurant’s past reputation proved difficult to shake off.
Efforts to Restore Respect
Deetz and Nhu worked hard to shift the restaurant’s narrative, replacing problematic decor and addressing the criticisms.
Nhu expressed discomfort with some of the old decorations, including religious figures and unsettling artwork depicting Vietnamese people.
Together, they sought to create a more authentic environment that would resonate with the local Vietnamese community in San Francisco.
Despite their best efforts, the couple faced an uphill battle.
San Francisco is home to one of the largest Vietnamese populations in the U.S., and while some locals did notice improvements, the restaurant’s history, combined with the financial strains of the pandemic, made recovery impossible.
The Struggles of the Restaurant Industry
Le Colonial’s closure is part of a broader trend of restaurant shutdowns across the U.S., particularly following the pandemic.
Rising food and labor costs have strained many businesses, leading to a wave of closures and bankruptcies.
Well-known chains like Red Lobster, Buca di Beppo, and World of Beer Bar & Kitchen have all filed for bankruptcy recently.
Many companies are struggling as more Americans opt to eat out less, partly due to rising prices and inflation.
The restaurant industry, once a bustling hub of social life, now faces a challenging future as businesses fight to stay afloat.
What’s Next?
As Le Colonial closes its chapter in San Francisco, the restaurant industry continues to evolve.
The challenges it faced reflect larger issues many eateries now encounter.
With the combination of cultural sensitivity concerns and the financial impacts of the pandemic, the fate of restaurants like Le Colonial may serve as a sign of the times.